‘Every Cook Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.

Lisa Goodwin
Lisa Goodwin

A seasoned tech journalist with a passion for unraveling complex topics for everyday readers.